Paris Day 4: L'Auberge Bressane

After a full day at Versaille, we had decided to stick close to the hotel. This turned out to be a great idea. The Rue Cler neighborhood is full of classic French food, small cafes, and high end bistros. We happened upon L'Auberge Bressane. The specialized in traditional homestyle French cuisine. 

Their menu featured favorites like coq au vin and mussels. We started with the house terrine served with an onion chutney and a jar of house pickles, and the Œufs en Meurette à la Mode du Beaujolais which is a broth like a consume with bacon, mushrooms and soft boiled eggs eaten with crusty bread.  As entrees we tried the canard à l’orange serves with thin fried potatoes and the house specialty Bresse chicken cooked in white wine and cream with morels. This was my first encounter with Bresse chicken. The Bresse chicken comes from of course Bresse, where it has been given an appellation d’origine contrôlée meaning it is protected like a patent by French and European law. Only chickens from this region in the Rhone-Alpes can be called Bresse.  We finished with the house chocolate souffle which was smooth and light. 

The dishes were distinct and homey. The dishes were simple in presentation, but complex in flavor. The service was friendly and the atmosphere was that of a small town restaurant, with traditional table cloths, and appropriate kitsch on the walls. L'Auberge Bressane calls itself the last auberge in Paris. They may well be a rare find in a city of high concept gourmet. The food is quintessentially French, delicious, and unpretentious. I was happy to have found our way to this hidden gem. 

Paris Day 3: Laduree

Eating in Paris would not be complete without a stop off at the famous Laduree. From their website "It all began in 1862, when Louis Ernest Ladurée, a miller from France’s southwest, created a bakery at 16 rue Royale in Paris." They are known for their elaborate pastries particularly the macaroons (pronounced  mac-a-ron) and not to be confused with the coconut treats many of us in the US know. A macaroon is a small meringue like sandwich cookies with smooth flavored filling in the middle. Laduree has a rainbow of selections like rose, caramel and sea salt, cocoa and orange blossom.

I had to try them, so like an American tourist, I ate them right there on the street corner. The pleasure out weighed the embarrassment! Favorite flavors:rose, caramel and sea salt, and dark chocolate. Just going inside is a wonderland of color and sugar. They do have an actual menu with food other than desserts, but who wants to waste calories on salad! These small wonders melt in your mouth and all over your hands. They ship anywhere in the world. I think these treats would make a great gift or favors for showers, parties, and weddings.

Paris Day 3: Chateau O Champagne Cruise

When planning for Paris, a wine tasting seemed to be in order. As we searched, we came across rave reviews for tastings with Chateau O. They offer several styles of tastings, from longer more extensive wine tastings, to tours, to chocolate tastings. We had planned on taking a Seine cruise on the Bateau-Mouches so when we saw Chateau O offered a cruise with private champagne tasting we were sold! The boat departed from just behind the Eiffel Tower which was easily walkable from our hotel. We arrived at the docks and kicked off the evening with a glass of rose at their bar. Yes even the boat docks have bars and cafes.

The boat arrived around 6:30. The weather threatened rain, but the overcast skies were a welcome reprieve from the hot weather of earlier in the day. As we boarded with the other couples we were delighted to find we would be hosted in a private cabin with exclusive access to the bow of the ship. So not only did we get to sample champagne, but we were not crammed into our seats with all of the other tourists who frequent these tours. With 4 other couples we tasted 4 extraordinary champagnes as we made our way down the Seine past the Ile Saint-Louis and back to the Eiffel Tower. This was a perfect way to see the city. Our sommelier was knowledgeable about the champagnes, and the city but was careful not to interrupt the tranquility and romance of the cruise itself. I certainly plan to try other outings with Chateau O when I return to Paris.

Paris Day 2: Magnificent Moroccan at Le 404

Le 404 is located in the hip Marais neighborhood of Paris. This neighborhood is known for its artsy vibe, and is loaded with great restaurants, and nightlife. The restaurant is small but beautiful and located off an unassuming side street. When you walk inside however you are transported to Morocco. The candlelight flickers and the smells waft out the door. We were greeted by the staff and treated to a cocktail while they set up our table. Long communal tables and low chairs added to the ambiance.

The menu was full of traditional dishes as well as some  creative additions. As an appetizer we started with the Salad Zaalouk which was a mix of roasted eggplant, tomatoes, olives and olive oil. For the entrees, we each decided to order a tangine. We had roasted lamb with prunes and raisins, and the roasted chicken with potatoes and preserved lemon. The flavors were rich and elegant. The prunes and lamb were the perfect combination of sweet and salty. The lemon and chicken were lighter and refreshing. 

Thanks to the suggestion of a couple at the adjacent table, we tried the Pastilla au lait, which is a light crepe with milk, honey and almonds. It has a similar flavor to baklava. Served with hot mint tea, it was a perfect way to end our meal. Le 404 is an excellent find in Paris a city known for great ethnic food. The staff was friendly and helped us easily translate the French menu describing Moroccan dishes in English or French words we could understand. This is truly a hidden gem in the Marais.

Paris Day 2: Lunching on Ile Saint Louis

Our second day in Paris we explored the Louvre, and toured the amazing Notre Dame. (See my travel blog for more on those). I'm here to talk about the food. After  full morning of sight seeing I succumbed to the lure of the sandwich counter in the Louvre. So a 12 euro tuna sandwich was my first real meal of the day, but nothing to write home about.

We wandered onto Ile de la Cite and toured Notre Dame and then strolled the small streets of Ile Saint Louis. The weather was cloudless, beautiful, and hot. So we, like all other tourists and Parisians, went seeking glace (ice cream). Ile Saint Louis has hundreds of cafes each serving the same brand of glace, Berthillon. This ice cream giant was started in 1954. They are famous for their ingredients which are all natural, milk, eggs, and sugar. No artificial preservatives, colors, or sweeteners are used. They offer plenty of unique flavors. After eating this several times, we settled on pistache and frambois (pistachio and raspberry) as our favorites.

As we wandered the island, we were treated to a slower pace and more residential (albeit wealthy) setting within the hustle and bustle of Paris. Strolling along the Seine, we stumbled upon a cute little cafe Le Lutetia. It overlooks the Seine and the Pont Louis Phillipe. This was a great spot to find some wine and people watch. As one glass of wine became two, we decided to split something for lunch. And so I ordered my first Salade Nicoise. I had eaten this salad as a daily lunch staple in Italy, and have even tried its replicas in the US, but this was the real thing (well one version of it). The salad recipe hails from Nice in the south of France and features leafy greens, hard boiled eggs, anchovies, tuna fish, green beans, tomatoes, and either rice or potatoes on the bottom. Typically it is served with oil and vinegar.  The version at Le Lutetia was one of the best I had while in all of France. Theirs was served with rice and had the addition of cucumbers. I am not sure if it was the wine or the atmosphere, but we devoured this salad. Since coming home, I have tried a tuna version with rice and a modified version using roasted chicken. Both make an excellent summer dinner. For some recipes check here.

Stay tuned for our amazing Moroccan dinner!

Pain aux Raisin

Paris, city of lights, city of food. After two weeks in France, Paris still holds a special place in my heart. One of the few benefits of my 6:30 am landing at CDG was arriving in the city and being welcomed by the smell of fresh baked bread. I had heard the stories a million times, Parisians are addicted to their bread. Now I know why. The smells waft from every street corner, and the city seems to have more bakeries than Seattle has Starbucks. Our first treats came from an amazing and small artisan baker, just three doors down from our hotel. I went in search of a chocolate croissant, but came out with something even more delicious pain aux raisin. This sweet bread had a custard like filling between its spiral layers and was loaded with plump sweet raisins.

And finally, your first installment.....

Our first day began with a picnic of breakfast foods, and ended with Hidden Kitchen. I had been dying to try this since the moment we planned our trip. As you may recall, I snagged the last two seats way back in March! One week prior to our arrival we were sent directions to the stylish Paris apartment where our chef hosts were to treat us to a multi-course gourmet feast. As we arrived at the apartment, we entered the code and went up the elevator, the building was what I had imagined, the perfect dream of a Paris apartment. The door opened and we were greeted by Laura one of our hosts. The candlelight flickered around the room as she served us an aperitif made with leeche syrup, leeche vodka and sparkling wine, delicious. We entered the dining space and were introduced to the other  guests. We met a great couple currently living in Beaufort, SC, but headed home to New Orleans and had a great time celebrating our first nights in the city.We bonded over our love of food and blogging. Check out her blog Im a Nola Girl.

Finally, the menu was out on the table and I couldn't resist sneaking a peak of what we were going to enjoy. And here it is...

We started with a watercress salad served with a poached quail egg, beautiful...

This was followed by linguine with radishes and pesto.

Up next, Salmon in a hibiscus bay leaf sauce over fingerling potatoes. The sauce was lightly sweet and a perfect complement to this flavorful fish. We then had a palate cleanser. I am not a fan of the drink, but the Mint Julep Cleanser was amazing. Served in a small cup with bourbon like jello and a mint lime foam. This was the perfect way to break up the meal. This was a great example of the creativity of this team! See more about it on their web site.

The next course was a chicken liver and artichoke ravioli. I am not a big fan of chicken liver, but the flavor of the artichoke balanced this dish so well. The added fennel and preserved lemon added the right amount of tart contrast to these strong flavors.

Up next cumin encrusted flank steak served over a polenta cake. I always love red meat, and this was a great combination of salt and texture.

Our salad course featured white beans with roasted beets and dill.

Finally we ended the night with a dessert of strawberry shiso sorbet on top of a puff pastry and slices or rhubarb. After dessert we were treated to homemade doughnuts and great rich french coffee.

This was an evening to remember. Laura and Braden were such gracious hosts. Laura served us wine paired with each course and Braden took the time to explain each dish and answer questions about his cooking and his ideas in the kitchen. They welcomed us into thier home and made each guest feel welcome and well cared for. Here are some photos that put mine to shame. I can't wait to return to Paris and to Hidden Kitchen. Thank you guys for a great night!

Young Augustine's

I know I promised Paris postings, but apparently when you leave your job for over two weeks, things pile up a bit. I am ready to dive back into the blog and tell you all about Paris, but first I need to back track to my last meal in the states.

Young Augustine's has become my new favorite hangout. Its in the laid back neighborhood of Grant Park, features amazing food, fun bar games, an ever changing beer list, and its less than a mile from my house!  I have been going there for a while now, but my last night before leaving for France, I finally took the initiative to take some photos.

The atmosphere here is casual and cool. They reopened in the space that was once The Standard, altering the menu and bringing in a more pub-like feel to the patio and interior.They have a great inside bar as well as a separate room for darts, but I am consistently drawn to the patio. There are patios on the back and side of the building giving views of downtown and Oakland Cemetery. In back they have two large size bocce ball courts.

The menu is an eclectic gourmet version of pub food. They offer small appetizers, sandwiches, salads, and heavier entree options. For starters I always begin with the homemade pimento cheese. It is served with a crusty baguette and a variety of house made pickles including pickled tomatoes, onions, and their amazing house made kimchi. This time I decided to try a new treat, pork belly sliders. These little bits of heaven were an small light buns with crispy yet moist slices of pork belly, just a little kimchi, and of course Duke's mayonnaise!

For entrees, its hard to go wrong with their fish and chips. The fish is lightly tempura battered and the chips are cooked in duck fat. Diets aside, everything tastes better in duck fat.I have to mention their tarter sauce which is I think the best I have eaten. For lunch I have requested this fish over a large salad. It was the perfect way to indulge in that amazing fish and still stay awake back at the office!

The carnita tacos are served with the kimchi. and sour cream. This is an interesting but delightful combination of salty sweet and sour flavors. In addition the steak (also served with the duck fries) was well marinated, tender and cooked to order.

The beer list rotates weekly to feature micro brews, some local names, as well as many national favorites. They have an excellent selection of IPAs and my favorite Belgian style beers.

I have heard they have dessert, but cant seem to stop myself from just ordering another beer and sitting back to watch the sunset over downtown. Young Augustine's is my new favorite hangout. I suggest you stop in and prepare to be impressed.

Back from Paris

Well sadly, I am back from France. I have eaten my way across the country and can't wait to tell you about it. From the food and the wine to the scenery and the people, the French know how to do it right. I just got in last night, so many pictures, and of course details to come.

East Atlanta Beer Festival

This Saturday is the annual East Atlanta Beer Festival. While tickets just sold out, you can still come to the event to drink and experience one of Atlanta's most interesting neighborhoods. I have lived in East Atlanta since 2003 and have seen the shops and bars in the village change many times. Today there is an eclectic mix of food and drink. I hope you will all take the time to visit a great part of town and to support the local bars and shops in my neighborhood.