Preping for a French Thanksgiving

We are on our own for the first time this year and rather than taking on the religion that is my mother's traditional Thanksgiving, we are doing things our own way. We considered several options and given our love of food, and abundant stash of Chateauneuf du Pape from out trip last year decided on a menu with a heavy French influence. Recipes and preparation images coming soon!

As we cook:

Foie gras stuffed mejool dates 

A cheese and charcuterie plate

For Dinner:

Duck Magret with an orange cranberry sauce

Brioche stuffing with sausage, fennel, and spinach

Brussel sprouts with lardon and shallots

Asparagus

A gratin of sweet potatoes and caramelized onions

For dessert:
Pumpkin creme brulee

And now for the results...

Our Thanksgiving table

The Appetizers

Husband Sous Chef preps the oranges for the cranberry sauce

Sweet Potatoes for the gratin

Yummm yes three onions to caramelize for the potatoes

The wine!

Scoring the magret

Searing the magret

Ready for the oven

Finished asparagus

Finished Brussel Sprouts with apples and lardon

Finished Stuffing

Sweet Potato Gratin

And the duck!

The finale, pumpkin creme brulee

French Chocolate Heaven

Hidden in a somewhat industrial area of Chamblee, Maison Robert offers you a step into France. This small chocolate shop features truffles, confections, and savory lunch items all made in house. Robert Reeb opened a shop in Atlanta in 1977. Robert had trained in his native France as a third generation pâtissier-confiseur-glacier. 

As you walk into the shop, the smell of chocolate overwhelms your senses. You can dazzle your eyes at the chocolate counter and explore the cute packages of chocolates and treats and you can watch Robert and his family in action. When I was there for lunch recently, I was able to watch him hand dip chocolate caramel truffles! Finally don't miss out on the tiny but delicious lunch menu. We tried the turkey and brie sandwich served on fresh baked baguette, and the homemade spinach quiche. The breads and quiche are also made daily and are the closest to France I had tasted in a while. The quiche was light and flaky with eggs that were firm, but not overcooked something hard to find. They also offer them frozen so you can take one home. 

Before leaving, we had to get some chocolates and try my personal reason for visiting, the macarons. These are very hard to find in Atlanta. Maison Robert offers about 10 flavors, each one delicate and full of natural flavors like sea salt and caramel and raspberry.  The colors are so pretty and they taste amazing.

This little shop offers so much to its customers. It is well worth exploring Chamblee to have lunch and go home with some sweet treats. 

J'aime beaucoup la cuisine française!

Calling all francophiles. Georgia Tech and the Consolate General of France here in Atlanta are  currently hosting France-Atlanta : Together Towards Innovation. Next week is French Restaurant Week, and most of the city's restaurants are offering $30 pre fix menus featuring some classic dishes and wine pairings. I can't wait to take advantage of this great opportunity.

Final Two Vacation Posts- My New Love Anchovies

My last stop in France was in the small coastal town of Collioure. This little town is what I imagined coastal France would be. Small colorful buildings lined the cobblestone streets, and little old french fishermen tended to boats and played boules along the shore. The culture here is a fascinating blend of French and Spanish tradition, Catalan is its official name. The residents here speak Catalan, French and Spanish among other languages. During my stay I had the pleasure of watching the boats come in, sitting at cafes with older couples as they passed the morning, and bargaining for delicious sausages, fruit and cheese in their weekly market.

By far the culinary highlight of my experience was a visit to the Desclaux family anchovy shop and factory. The family has been producing anchovies for over 100 years. They are nestled on a back street away from the central town, and both sell and create their amazing anchovy products on site. We fell in love with the salted plain anchovies drowned in olive oil or prepared with lemon and garlic, but also the anchovy tapenade made with black olives and the anchovy cream perfect for spreading on crusty french bread. Anchovies of this type are apparently considered rare and of a hand crafted nature as opposed to the terrible mass produced products we get here, even when they are imported from France and Spain. Calatonian anchovies have changed my mind about this food. I have been parceling out the products we brought home and am looking forward to my next installment of these salty delicacies.

Last meal in Provence: Le Mas d'Aigret

Le Mas d' Aigret is nestled at the base of the fortified walled city of Les Baux de Provence. From the moment you arrive, you know you have reached a special destination. The view from our patio was a panorama of olive groves and vineyards spanning from the mountains to Arles. The rooms were well appointed, and the property featured a pool, restaurant, and boules court! We settled onto our patio had some of our rose left over from Tavel, and enjoyed an amazing sunset following the seemingly unending daylight of summertime in Provence.  The hotel was the perfect base to explore Les Baux and its surrounding vineyards. We were able to spend two evenings climbing through this ancient city well after the tour buses had left for the day. At sunset, the town was eerily quiet and we had the streets all to ourselves. From our patio we could hear the rustle of the flag atop the castle walls. The town itself features a 13th century castle and a 16th century city. They have their fair share of tourist stores selling lavender and linens, and tourist restaurants, but they also have unending views, and some of the most interesting architecture we found in Provence.

As for dining, we chose to spend our last night dining in the restaurant at Le Mas d' Aigret. We were not disappointed. Our last day, the Mistral winds had kicked up making a meal on the patio unlikely, so we were treated to dinner in the ancient troglodyte cave room that is built into the hotel itself.  Our charming waiter described the menu and we opted for the three course tasting menu and a nice bottle of local red wine. To start, I had a nice basil pesto ravioli with fresh percorino cheese. The herbs were light and flavorful and the ravioli was perfectly cooked and buttery in the pesto sauce.

As a main course, I chose the fish which was served whole, roasted with pasta and fresh vegetables. It was light and flavorful. For a girl who used to not eat a whole fish, I had come a long way! This was no longer a challenge and I can appreciate the beauty and preparation of a whole fish.

Finally for dessert, I couldn't resist the creme brulee. It was light and served dusted with cocoa powder. The food and hospitality at Le Mas d' Aigret are unsurpassed. We were welcomed and able to be as connected or solitary as we wanted during our stay. I loved the quiet afternoons at the shady pool and the gorgeous views from our porch. I will return to Les Baux. It was all I expected from Provence.

Provence:Sunday Lunch at Le Vivier- Isle sur la Sorgue

I was drawn to L'isle sur la Sorgue for its  picturesque waterways which weave through the city. It is known as the Venice of Provence and quiet famous for its antique market on Sunday afternoons. I planned to stroll through the town and maybe find a nice place near the water to have a light lunch on our way from Tavel to Les Baux de Provence.  Little did I know I was going to find the lunch of a lifetime. Le Vivier is located on the outer edge of town away from the other cafes and the market on a road leading us out of town. It is tucked back in what looks like an office building, but once you enter, you know you have arrived. The decor seems ripped from a restaurant in Manhattan or Paris, but with a playful welcoming touch. Orange water glasses and bowls with playful goldfish highlight the stark white tables. The patio was our destination. Overhanging one of the famous waterways, it gives a cool breeze and peaceful backdrop to an epic lunch.

The menu was a pre-fix festival menu for what was the french version of Mother's Day. We began with champagne. The appetizers arrived looking like an artistic creation. They included, duck tartar served on a house made cracker, a broth of brine, kelp and seafood, a delicious deep fried head cheese, and a cheese puff served on top of a raspberry jam. We worked our way through these treats as we admired the french families out for their Sunday lunch. Each family was there to eat; even the children were diving into these amazing gourmet foods that I would have turned my nose up at as a kid. What a way to acquire an appetite!

The next course was a fois gras mouse served with a salad, toast points and the most beautiful terrine I saw in France. Wrapped in spring onions it was a fantastic blend of fois gras and sweetbreads that melted in your mouth.

The third course was a red fish served sauteed over large Provençal beans with cockles and a seafood broth.

The main course, (yes there was another course), was an herb crusted rack of lamb. The meat melted off the bone and the herb crust added just the right amount of crunch and flavor. It was served with a beautiful pair of stuffed squash blossoms.

Finally our dessert plate featured a strawberry tart with a house made strawberry smoothie and homemade ice cream. I could not think of a more beautiful or refreshingly light way to end a large meal.

Our meal lasted about three hours. The service and owners were so friendly and accommodating. They know the food is good, but they want you to know that too. It was nice to sit back and enjoy not only the taste but the look of each dish. They gave you enough time relax (and drink your wine) between courses. It was nice to experience the true feel of a lengthy french family lunch.

Provence: Tasting dinner at Auberge du Tavel

After a long day of sightseeing, we headed back to cozy Tavel and to our room at the Auberge du Tavel. We spent some time at the pool, and as we read the owners were busily preparing the tables for dinner. When we booked our room, we had heard of the hotel through trip advisor, but as we got closer to our stay, surprisingly it was written up in the NY Times! The writer had eaten lunch at our cute little hotel. Needless to say, I was looking forward to our dinner. We knew it would be delicious, but were not prepared for the level of culinary skill and beauty this meal would entail.

To start, we ordered a flight of rose. Each wine from the region was paired with a course of our meal and gave the opportunity to see the subtle differences in the terriors of Tavel. The dinner was a coursed tasting menu. To begin, the escargot served out of shell, sauteed, and over small glasses of different creme sauces, one with basil, one traditional, and one that seemed to be red pepper.

Our other appetizer was a take on a pate served with amazing strawberry glaze and toasted bread. The flavors of the rich pate were accented by the tangy strawberries for a memorable taste.

Our main courses were roasted pork tenderloin served with a roasted eggplant, rather like an open face ratatouille and a roasted fish Provencal. To settle our stomachs, we were served a mini creme brulee served inside of an egg shell and this was followed by a delicious French take on what I would call a strawberry shortcake, featuring basil ice cream!

As we sat in the tiny courtyard, we dreamed of meals like this every night, relaxing with good company from gracious hosts, to a friendly Englishman at the adjacent table. The Auberge is well worth a stay for its large well appointed rooms and perfect location for wine tasting and visiting several of the larger cities in Provence, but I would go back again simply for its beautiful and deliciously unpretentious food.

Provence: Light lunch in Chateau Neuf du Pape

One of the highlights of our trip was the day and a half we spent in Tavel. I have posted about this earlier and was excited to see this small town and discover the food and wine they had to offer. We had booked a room at the cute Auberge du Tavel. This offered a prime location in the center of town and a great little restaurant. As we entered the house, we found the staff to be more than courteous and our room was nicely decorated, and very large by French standards.   We unpacked and headed out into town to one of the tasting rooms featuring the local rose. The wines were cool, crisp, and full of life. They varied in color and flavor from light and refreshing to dark and complex. The vineyards were laid out around the town and divided into three terriors. Each vine was surrounded by the famous rough rocky soil that makes the wine here so unique.

Unable to resist great wine at a close distance, we spent the afternoon in charming Chateau neuf de Pape. Our first stop was lunch at the adorable Le Pistou. The restaurant was perched on the narrow street heading toward the chateau.

We stopped because of the street-side seating, but were thrilled by our lunch choices. We had an amazing goat cheese, field green and pistachio salad and a sandwich of coppa, goat cheese, grilled vegetables, on warm baguette. We sat and watched as tourists climbed the hill, enjoyed our wine, and quite frankly one of the better lunches of our trip.

Le Pistou
15 rue Joseph-Ducos, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
04-90-83-71-75

Paris Day 5: Cooking with Class!

Our last day in Paris was the day I had been waiting for. Our time in the city was culminating in a chef lead market tour and cooking class offered by Cooking with Class.  We met our chef/ host Pino Ficara early in the morning in the residential neighborhood of Monmartre. I loved the neighborhood. I would compare it to the Upper Westside in NYC. It was a great mix of small businesses, restaurants, markets, and residential buildings. It had a homey feel. We made introductions with a couple from Darwin, Australia and a couple from Monterrey, California. Pino lead us through the streets in search of the perfect ingredients for our meal.

Our first stop was an amazing cheese shop. These small shops dotted the streets of Paris, but this one had a selection that made me want to cry. The smells of stinky cheese wafted out into the street. We were walked through the various types of cheese, their production, and type as well as interesting information about storage and use. Pino shared with us historical information about cheese in France and facts about government regulations and differences between the US and France.

Next we toured a butcher shop. There we were able to see the variety and differences in what French shoppers can choose from on a daily basis. There were many more birds than we readily find in the US at a general market, squab, duck, 4 or more types of chicken, hens, etc. There were amazing cuts of beef and pork and and entire counter filled with different cuts of duck. In the back of the store they offered house made terrines of foie gras, and other delicious pre-made treats.

Then it was onto the fish market. We were educated about how to choose a really fresh fish. Based on these qualities I am not sure we get really fresh fish in Atlanta. The shop keepers were friendly and descaled and filleted our choices on the spot.

Next was produce market. From the amazing strawberries, to the huge pears to the unlimited fresh herb section, I was in heaven! The fruit and vegetable selection was much more seasonal than what we find in the US, showing that the French like to eat everything when it is at its peak of flavor. We selected the perfect herbs to compliment the fish and duck as well as some fresh berries for our creme brulee.

Our final stop was the bread shop. Of course we purchased the customary baguette, but also some thicker more rustic bread, and nut bread to pair with out cheeses. This shop had been in existence for years and was originally the site of a communal oven for this neighborhood. They still have the oven in the basement under the store. We all stopped to smell and to taste some bread. Then we were off to prepare our meal.

The cooking school is located in an unassuming store font off of a main intersection. It was well equipped with all the tools for our class, but still small enough that we had an intimate experience with each other and with the food. Pino quickly put the group to work chopping onions, and beginning to saute shrimp for our fish sauce. He was instructive in knife techniques, food preparation tricks, and some excellent recipe ideas. Our first dish was a fillet of fish brushed with olive oil and cooked on a bed of herbs. To top it, we had a reduced sauce of creme, shrimp, shallots, and white wine. This was served on top of a fennel and orange salad with the shrimp in the side. I could not have thought of a more beautiful dish. The fish took on the herb flavor and overall it was light in flavor but filling. I would love to have this for lunch every day!

Our second dish was a seared and broiled duck breast served with quail breast drumsticks on the side. To sauce the duck, we created a reduction of caramelized onions. It was so rich and flavorful. In the preparation, I learned to de-bone and prepare the quail as well as how to use sugar and butter to caramelize onions, two skills I had always been afraid to try. With each dish, Pino instructed us on not only how to prepare, but hot to plate each item. The result was picture worthy!

Our cheese course, purchased at the market  was the largest I have ever seen, and fairly unrealistic for a party or even a restaurant, but it was a great way to try so many cheese I had not experienced. I of course loved the goat cheeses, my typical favorite, but was surprised by some of the blues, and well as one cheese we are calling spider cheese because spiders actually eat the rind as it is caved! 

Lastly we came to the creme brulee. While I had learned how to make this dish in other classes, I gathered some useful tips on the preparation as well as the cooking and storage. My favorite tip was to ditch my small Williams Sonoma kitchen torch in favor or an industrial model from Home Depot! I went right out to buy one when I got home. Pino instructed us in the proper way to spin the ramekin to distribute the sugar topping and the best ways to get the perfect carmelization on top. The result was pretty and delicious!

This was by far my favorite day in Paris. The market tour gave us insight into French food and culture. Pino was an excellent guide and able to talk with us about customs, culture, and differences in food between France, the US and other countries. I feel like I made friends, toured the city, learned some new skills and ate a delicious meal all as a part of this class. I would highly recommend taking a cooking class in Paris. This path seems to be less stuffy and formal than some other schools, and the experience is well beyond courses I have taken in the past. Thanks to our chef and guide for a wonderful day! I will be back to Paris in the future and signing up for another course with Cooking with Class will be first on my list of things to do!

Paris Day 4: L'Auberge Bressane

After a full day at Versaille, we had decided to stick close to the hotel. This turned out to be a great idea. The Rue Cler neighborhood is full of classic French food, small cafes, and high end bistros. We happened upon L'Auberge Bressane. The specialized in traditional homestyle French cuisine. 

Their menu featured favorites like coq au vin and mussels. We started with the house terrine served with an onion chutney and a jar of house pickles, and the Œufs en Meurette à la Mode du Beaujolais which is a broth like a consume with bacon, mushrooms and soft boiled eggs eaten with crusty bread.  As entrees we tried the canard à l’orange serves with thin fried potatoes and the house specialty Bresse chicken cooked in white wine and cream with morels. This was my first encounter with Bresse chicken. The Bresse chicken comes from of course Bresse, where it has been given an appellation d’origine contrôlée meaning it is protected like a patent by French and European law. Only chickens from this region in the Rhone-Alpes can be called Bresse.  We finished with the house chocolate souffle which was smooth and light. 

The dishes were distinct and homey. The dishes were simple in presentation, but complex in flavor. The service was friendly and the atmosphere was that of a small town restaurant, with traditional table cloths, and appropriate kitsch on the walls. L'Auberge Bressane calls itself the last auberge in Paris. They may well be a rare find in a city of high concept gourmet. The food is quintessentially French, delicious, and unpretentious. I was happy to have found our way to this hidden gem.